La Fortuna Waterfall is one of the most popular in Costa Rica, the falls create an incredible mass of white water, which is mesmerising to watch. Surprisingly, given its power, you are actually allowed to swim in the pool at the base - although I use the term swim loosely because it felt like a rough ocean when I was in there, and you couldn’t stray too far from the rocks.
Happily, there is a much calmer and equally special swimming spot just a few minutes walk away.
The downside to La Fortuna Waterfall, whether you want to swim or simply admire it, is the crowds. More on that later in the guide.
Here’s everything you need to know to plan the perfect trip.
The walk to La Fortuna Waterfall
The stats
Distance: 1.3km return
Elevation gain: 100m
Difficulty: Moderate
The walk to La Fortuna Waterfall, although steep, doesn’t involve any tricky terrain.
The trail is very manicured and there are handrails all the way down to the falls. As long as you can climb up several hundred stairs, you aren’t going to have trouble on this walk.
The waterfall is privately owned and has an entrance fee, but doesn’t require a guide.
The trail
The walk begins on a flat concrete path and after less than 100m you’ll arrive at the first lookout.
This offers a good, but distant look over the falls.
From here you’ll begin the descent down through the rainforest to the next lookout and the foot of the falls.
The track is all on well maintained concrete stairs and there are handrails too.
Although there are a few little flat sections, the majority of the trail is downhill and relatively steep.
The forest is gorgeous though and there is always something to see if you need a break - as with almost everywhere in Costa Rica, birds and butterflies are abundant.
Roughly 550m after you leave the top lookout, you’ll see another lookout just before the bottom of the falls.
This is a much better viewpoint as you’re a lot closer, but still have a slightly elevated position.
From here it’s a couple of minutes walk to the very base of the waterfall. The well maintained track lasts right up until the final few metres, when you’ll need to walk over some rocks, which can be slippery when wet.
Swimming at La Fortuna Waterfall
The waterfall is incredible with blue green water and immense power. It’s not the tallest or widest waterfall I’ve seen, but it definitely has some of the most white water!
The setting is also spectacular, with tall cliffs dripping in moss and vines.
The pool at the base of the falls is a decent size and would be perfect for swimming if it weren’t for the turbulence - and we were visiting in dry season!
The force of the waterfall actually created waves and it was more like swimming in a choppy ocean than a waterfall swimming hole!
I ended up just sticking to the outer edge and I actually never saw anyone else venture further either!
Still, if you don’t mind cold water, it’s an energising way to start your day!
If you just want to admire the falls, there are plenty of large rocks and boulders where you can sit and relax.
The calmer swimming hole
Just 50m from the base of the waterfall, you’ll find an idyllic spot. It takes just a couple of minutes to walk to, and it’s pure bliss after swimming in the somewhat hectic waterfall.
The water is even bluer here and crystal clear, you can see schools of fish without even entering the water.
It’s backed by glorious rainforest and it’s one of those perfect tropical scenes you imagine when planning a trip to Costa Rica. There were even iridescent Blue Morpho butterflies and hummingbirds flitting across the water!
It’s much easier to get into the water here too, as there are very little in the way of slippery rocks to negotiate.
The water starts off very shallow and then gets a bit deeper as you get closer to the other side.
The swimmable section of the river isn’t huge, but you can definitely do a few lengths.
Although much calmer than the waterfall, there is still a current here. It’s actually quite hard to swim up river, but when you do, you can then glide back down, which is super relaxing.
You can repeat this for as many times as you have the energy to go back up river again!
Other places of interest at La Fortuna Waterfall
The two primary draw cards are of course the waterfall and river swimming hole, but there is also a butterfly garden and orchid trail.
Unfortunately for us, the majority of orchids were not in bloom when we visited, but the forest trail was pretty enough, and it was short and easy (a five minute walk). If they are in bloom it would no doubt be a lot more special.
The butterfly garden was tiny and had less butterflies than the river swimming hole, but it’s worth a quick peek incase you get luckier than us.
Facilities at La Fortuna Waterfall
La Fortuna Waterfall is well kitted out with a cafe, toilets, showers and changing rooms. The changing rooms and showers were private cubicles and nice and clean (although we were visiting first thing in the morning).
Crowds at La Fortuna Waterfall
Unfortunately, if you’re hoping for a bit of serenity at the waterfall, then it can be tricky. It’s wildly popular! I will caveat this by saying we did visit in the dry season though, it might be a lot quieter in the rainy season.
The falls open at 7am. We arrived just before 7am and there were ten of us in the queue for tickets! The only reason we got pictures with no one in them is because we legged it down to the falls in just 7 minutes. We got it to ourselves for less than 5 minutes!
By 8am there were over 70 people at the falls, and by 8.30am, over 100 - and yes i counted just to be thorough : )
This was not a weekend either, so I would avoid weekends at all costs as everywhere around La Fortuna was busier on weekends.
You might actually be better off visiting late afternoon and hoping it empties out as the day goes on. The downside is that if this doesn’t work you’ve missed your chance of a very short quieter period first thing.
It’s worth noting that your entry ticket for the waterfall is valid all day, so you can always go in earlier and if it’s busy, pop in again at the end of the day and see if it’s any better.
La Fortuna Waterfall opening hours and entry fees
At time of writing the waterfall is open from 7am and you need to leave the base of the falls by 5pm. How strictly that last time is enforced I don’t know.
We have found timings to be very loose in Costa Rica, but having said that, they wouldn’t sell us an entry ticket a minute before 7am, so it may be that La Fortuna Waterfall is an anomaly.
The entry fee is USD $18 for non residents. Children under 8 go free, and over 8’s pay full price.
Getting to La Fortuna Waterfall
La Fortuna Waterfall is located around 5km and a 10 minute drive from La Fortuna town centre. It’s 135km and a three hour drive from San Jose.
There is currently no public transport to the falls, so you’d need to hire a taxi if you don’t have a car.
Where to stay in La Fortuna
Arenal Observatory Lodge
The Arenal Observatory is a pretty special place. The lodge has incredible views of the iconic Mount Arenal - even from the rooms!
The rooms are clean, comfortable and well away from the hustle and bustle of La Fortuna town.
It’s surrounded by nearly 900 acres of privately managed rainforest, there are walking trails and even a bird sanctuary on site.
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Apartamento Equipados RyA del Volcan
For those looking for a comfortable stay in a central location, this apartment is a great choice.
Apartamento Equipados RyA del Volcan is a short walk from the centre of La Fortuna, so you don’t have to worry about finding parking or paying for a taxi every time you go out for a meal.
The rooms are stylishly furnished, clean and have a small living area and kitchen for the times you don’t fancy eating out.
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