The Eskdale Valley is wild swimming paradise. There are dozens of pools with crystal clear water, ranging from tropical turquoise to brilliant emerald, and many sit beneath stunning waterfalls to complete the picture perfect scene. The valley views are also spectacular, with impressive fells and craggy cliff walls that add even more atmosphere.
In short, it’s the kind of place you hop on a plane hoping to find abroad, and yet it’s right here in our own backyard.
The walk to reach the pools is easy, and the first pools begin very early on if you know where to look.
Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Tongue Pot and the Eskdale waterfalls.
The walk to Tongue Pot
The stats
Distance: 4.3 miles (6.9km) return including Esk Falls
Elevation gain: 150m
Difficulty: Easy
The walk to Tongue Pot is easy, there’s very little in the way of elevation gain and the path is generally in good condition. The only caveat to this is that there is a small amount of boggy ground to cover, but really only a small amount (unless you want to visit some of the pools before or after Tongue Pot, which require traversing a bit of extra bog).
Note that there are so many pools, that even though we spent over five hours here, we didn’t cover them all. You’ll definitely find plenty more if you have a poke around - something we’ll be back to do next time!
Starting the trail
From the parking area (details below) you need to head along the road (Hardknott Pass) and turn off beside the red phone box (co-ordinates: 54.3997956, -3.2154583).
Continue along the flat gravel road, past the farmhouse (bearing left) and you’ll see a wooden bridge at the 330m mark. Don’t cross the bridge, instead continue straight, along the dirt track.
You’ll have some lovely fell views right from the beginning of the walk, and they only get better the further into the valley you head.
The trail is flat or very gently uphill and varies between smooth and a little rocky, but the rocky bits are not difficult, just uneven.
Once you’ve been walking for 750m you’ll pass through a gate and from here the walk becomes spectacular.
The views are just phenomenal, with towering fells on either side of you as you continue strolling through the valley.
Reaching Tongue Pot
Roughly 400m beyond the gate you’ll come to a tiny stream crossing, there are several of these throughout the next section of the track, but there are always rocks to use as stepping stones (I imagine they might be submerged if there has been prolonged heavy rain though).
At the 1.5km mark, you’ll come to a large stile and the views get even better.
The mountains loom taller and you can also see the river to your left.
Soon after crossing the stile there is a social trail leading down to the river, which will get you to Tongue Pot, but tends to be muddier than keeping to the higher path (straight on from the stile), which is gravel.
The two trails join up a little further down the track.
Both paths soon follow the river and the water colour is out of this world.
On a bright sunny day it really is turquoise and at the 2.3km mark there’s a small blue pool, which anywhere else would be somewhere I’d stop for a dip.
In Eskdale there were too many beautiful pools to fit in and we kept on walking.
We reached Tongue Pot 550m later, which is 2.9km from the parking area.
Swimming at Tongue Pot
The pool at Tongue Pot is pretty big, the biggest of the seven I have swum in so far in the valley. It’s surrounded by a steep grassy hillside which you can sit and relax on.
Getting into the water can be done in a few different places. I opted for heading down the rocky slope to the left where you can get in quite easily.
There are a few shallow rocks to negotiate once inside the water, but it does deepen fairly quickly.
Although there are some shallow sections and submerged rocks on the left side of the pool, I found that other than that, you could have a long leisurely swim without really bumping into anything.
The water colour is sublime. It’s a beautiful shade of emerald, and crystal clear.
You can literally see through to the bottom, despite it being pretty deep. There’s also a gorgeous cascade at the far side and tall cliff walls, which really top off the spectacular swimming hole.
The water is cool, but not absolutely freezing (by UK standards in summer).
The first time I went in was before the sun was up and even then I didn’t find it that cold - but I am used to cold water swimming! If you visit on a hot day it feels really refreshing, rather than icy!
Right next to Tongue Pot, there’s a second smaller pool. Accessing it just involves walking down a few rocks.
This pool is a lot stiller than Tongue Pot, as it doesn’t have the big cascade, so the water is glassy, which is just gorgeous.
The pool is quite shallow though and you do bump into rocks a bit if you try and swim, so this is a better option for lazing around in, rather than somewhere for a proper swim.
Continuing higher up the valley
Just 200m beyond Tongue Pot, up the dirt path, there is a small stone bridge. To the right of the bridge is another beautiful waterfall, with a much taller cascade - Lingcove Beck Falls.
Despite it’s beauty, it doesn’t get much attention because the plunge pool at the base is really small. It just goes to show how spoilt you are when visiting the Eskdale Valley!
Just uphill from the bridge (taking a right before you cross it) there is a hidden cave waterfall, which is well worth checking out if you don’t mind a little scramble to access it.
On the other side of the stone bridge, you can head uphill to a series of swimming holes. The path starts off pretty well, but there is a large boggy patch just before the main Esk Falls.
It was very muddy and wet, despite the fact we were visiting in an unusually dry period, so go barefoot or in boots you don’t mind getting muddy.
It’s oh so worth it though because the pools up here are incredible!
My favourite of the Esk waterfall pools
Just 50m beyond the bridge and before you reach the bog, you’ll come to your first major pool. This is probably my favourite of all the swimming spots along this part of the river.
The long narrow pool has high cliff walls, a picturesque small cascade, and the water colour is one of the most captivating I have ever seen.
No photo will ever do it justice, but it’s a deep shimmering emerald, yet still crystal clear. It’s enchanting, and the spot I found most difficult to leave!
Getting into the water is easy enough, you just have to walk down couple of sloped rock ledges and then over a few rocks.
The water deepens almost immediately, so there’s very little in the way of slippery rocks to negotiate. Once inside the water, it’s smooth sailing and a truly incredible place to swim.
The pool gets a lot of sunshine, so it isn’t too cold, but again every time I mention temperature it is still the UK, so it’s not balmy!
Continuing on to Esk Falls
You can then continue higher up the valley and this is where the bog comes in. It’s less than a few hundred metres to reach several more exquisite pools though, so don’t let the mud phase you.
I swam in the two higher pools (which for reference are 3.3km from the car park), each with their own waterfall and this time the water is blue, not emerald.
They are exceptionally pretty and as with every pool in the valley, crystal clear.
The pools both have a bit of current, due to the bigger waterfalls that flow into them, but it’s not the type of pressure that feels like it will sweep you away (and there are plenty of boulders preventing this).
However, we visited when the flow was very low, so be wary if there has been heavy rainfall because you don’t want to get pushed into rocks.
Both pools are easy to access, perhaps the easiest of any of the pools along this stretch. You just need to walk down a few rocks, which are grippy when dry.
Both pools are relatively small, but have deep water, so you can definitely have a little swim.
Hidden away beyond these pools is the biggest waterfall on Esk Falls and it’s a must do. You can find the directions here.
Heading back via the turquoise pools
I wanted to see what the lower river had to offer, but having already swum in five pools over four hours, I wasn’t really planning to swim again.
However, the next two pools (which are on route back to the car park) are irresistible. Unbelievably they are very different again from the other swimming spots to this point, because the water colour is turquoise. It honestly blew me away.
To find them you need to begin heading back the way you came, past Tongue Pot, along the main trail. You need to continue on the main trail for approximately 900m, it will then split, and you want to take the less distinct path heading down to, and alongside the river.
The what3words for the pools is: stumble.encourage.mailing (co-ordinates: 54.4102413, -3.2075153).
Before you even reach the main pools, known as Kail Pot, you will see several other amazing turquoise swimming holes. You could stop in any one of these and be impressed, but the waterfalls at Kail Pot are something special and worth seeking out.
Keep following the obvious trail by the river and as you near the turn off for Kail Pot, the ground will get very boggy.
Unlike the Esk Falls bog, this is more waterlogged than it is muddy, but it’s impossible to keep dry boots.
You are aiming for a stile which takes you from the boggy ground over the fence and dry stone wall, the coordinates are: 54.410239, -3.207523 (what3words: lamps.testy.deriving).
From here you are a two minute walk along a grassy dirt path to the first of two pools.
Swimming at Kail Pot
There are two turquoise pools which you can cross between by climbing up the cascades that separate them (easy if you’re used to this kind of thing, but otherwise watch out for slippery rocks underfoot).
You can also access both pools via dry land if preferred! Each involves walking down some rocks which are grippy when dry.
The first pool is deep in parts, but does have some shallow rocks. You can still have a swim, but it’s also perfect for lazing around in as it gets a lot of sun.
The second pool has a bigger waterfall and is deeper and less rocky than the first. It’s a sublime place for a dip.
If you’re visiting in summer the cliffs beside both pools are covered in heather, which adds yet more magic to somewhere that already looks like a Disneyland creation (but better!).
When you’re ready to leave the pools, you head back over the stile and up on to the main path you came in on.
Keep them wild
Please remember to take all rubbish with you and keep these places wild and pristine - as with anywhere in the outdoors. It’s important to leave them exactly as you found them so they will remain beautiful for generations to come.
Tongue Pot is increasingly popular and high visitor numbers do mean there is an increased chance of litter.
Litter tends to breed litter, so if you do spot any and are able to pick it up and dispose of it outside the park, it will go a long way to keeping the area clean.
The best time to visit Tongue Pot and the Eskdale Waterfalls
The waterfalls of the Eskdale Valley are becoming incredibly popular, which is no surprise given the immense beauty of this area. This does mean that if you’re visiting in the school holidays, especially if that’s a sunny day in summer, it is likely to be very crowded. Due to the sheer number of pools this doesn’t mean you won’t find a quiet spot, but if you want to swim in some of the main pools without crowds, you’ll need to come early.
We arrived at 7.30am and it began getting busier from around 9ish. It wasn’t too bad until 10am, but after that you will only get one of the main pools to yourself if you’re very lucky and probably not for long.
Parking for Tongue Pot
There isn’t a whole lot of parking for Tongue Pot, and certainly not enough for how many people visit during hot days in the summer holidays! There are two main parking areas, to the left and right of the trailhead. The first area is a large lay by (which is just south of the trailhead, co-ordinates: 54.3997956, -3.2154583), and the second is a section of road with flat grassy areas where people pull over (it’s just north of the starting point of the walk). The postcode for the area is CA19 1TH.
Both areas are free of charge and there are portaloos by the trailhead, but nowhere else along the walk.
Eskdale is located 1 hour 25 mins from Keswick, 1 hour 20 mins from Ambleside and 1 hour 30 mins from Buttermere.
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