The Pagoda Lookout Walking Track is spectacular. The views and incredible rock formations are reminiscent of places like the Gardens of Stone, but without the challenging hikes or gnarly 4WD tracks to get there. It completely blew me away; so much so, that we ended up doing it twice in one day - once to see it for the first time and once to watch the sunset.
It’s hard to believe that a place this special seems to fly under the radar, we didn’t see another soul all day, despite the fact it’s only an hour’s drive from Mudgee.
Here’s everything you need to know about the Pagoda Lookout Walking Track.
The Pagoda Lookout Walking Track
The stats
Distance: 2.1km return to the lookout (then you can explore further off trail)
Elevation gain: 77m
Difficulty: Moderate
Summary: The walk to the turn off for the Pagoda Lookout is virtually all flat and on good terrain. From the turn off you have a very short, but steep climb up to the lookout.
From here you can choose to explore the pagodas as much or as little as you like, the view is fabulous from the first spot you get to, so you don’t need to walk off track if you don’t want to.
Starting the trail: to Platypus Point
From the parking area (details below) the walk heads into the bush on a flat well maintained track. It’s nice and shady, with some large rocky outcrops scattered amongst the gum trees.
If you’re heading up to the lookout for sunset, you’re likely to see a roo or two along this stretch.
There is one turn to make (heading right) but the track is signposted, not with the walk name, but with a small hiker signpost. After 300m the trail leaves the bush and begins following the water.
It continues to be flat and easy and after another 100m (400m into the trail) you’ll arrive at Platypus Point. Though we sadly didn’t see any platypus here (even at dusk) it is a lovely spot for a wild swim.
You could swim at many others points around the lake, however Platypus Point has a rock shelf which juts out into the water, allowing you to get in easily (watch for the slippery rocks inside the water before you swim off).
Continuing to Pagoda Lookout
From Platypus Point it’s just 350m to the turn off for the Pagoda Lookout. There is a slight downhill section, followed by a slight uphill, but it’s all still on a nice track. Again there is one right turn to make, but it’s signposted.
The left turn off the Weir Walk and onto the Pagoda Lookout is signposted by name.
The first bit is still along a bush track heading gently uphill before you reach a rocky section which begins to get steeper.
The track winds around the side of the rock wall, but is generally quite easy to follow as it curves right and then left. There is one narrow section, but it’s only a few steps and the rock is grippy.
Around half way you will begin walking up the rock itself and then across a flatter section of rock platform. It’s all easy going before you reach a very short steeper section (only around 3 steps), which would be difficult if wet and slippery, but is good and grippy when dry.
It’s probably the most grippy rock I have ever walked on which is what makes exploring this area a joy. I am never a fan of moving over slippery rock, so it made all the difference to have terrain that made me feel really secure.
As you climb up you get some wonderful views looking back over Ganguddy Dunns Swamp, backed by dense bushland and distant mountains. The best views of the swamp are from here, rather than from the lookout itself which faces in the opposite direction.
Just 300m after the turn off you will arrive at the main ‘lookout’. It’s not really a lookout in the official sense, more of a spectacular view over the endless pagodas and eucalypt trees.
It’s a whimsical landscape made all the more special by the fact it’s so quiet and nothing is off limits. You can explore as far as you are comfortable and there are no barriers, which keeps it feeling wild and untouched.
Exploring the pagodas
My absolute favourite spot is the main one that you come to first, however, exploring further into the pagodas was a lot of fun.
We headed right for 300m (each way), there were a couple of ups and downs and a short narrow section, but nothing that felt precarious.
As you bear right and begin heading up to the next pagoda there are two paths up it, one is steeper and more worn than the other.
The one further to the right is shallower and easy, though neither are challenging. You will then have a bit of walking along flat rock and also a little sandy track as you make your way round to the pagodas (these are the ones you could see on the far right from the main lookout).
I stopped at the one that was 300m from the lookout, which was easy to climb due to the tiered ledges. The top was a dead end, but there were more great views.
You could also climb the pagoda opposite and from here you could continue further, but as we were walking on a 35C day and still wanted to do the full Weir Walk, we decided to call it a day.
However, as mentioned we did come back for sunset which was just stunning. The skies were clear so we didn’t get a massively colourful sunset, but the soft light over the pagodas and forest was glorious.
It was totally silent but for the birds and a slight breeze. We both thought it would make for an epic stargazing spot if you were staying in the campground nearby.
Continuing the walk
If you only want to do the Pagoda Lookout you would simply retrace your steps when you finish exploring this section.
However, if you have more time you can continue along the main path to Long Cave, which makes for a 5.7km circuit walk. My favourite bit was definitely the pagodas, but the cave is also cool and the whole walk was enjoyable.
If you love Indigenous art you could also make a stop at the Rocks Campsite Walk - which begins at Kookaburra Beach.
The easy flat loop is just 550m and there are two overhangs with hand stencils (made by the Dabee People of the Wiradjuri Nation). Not many (a couple in each) but still worth a peek if, like us, you love Aboriginal art.
Facilities at Ganguddy Dunns Swamp
There are many long drop toilets scattered throughout the campsite areas which were very clean, though neither had running water to wash your hands.
You can also hire kayaks from Southern Cross Kayaking, which we did last time we were in Mudgee.
There are multiple campsites including some scattered amongst the Rocks Campsite Walk (our fave being the atmospheric site number 31).
Getting to Ganguddy Dunns Swamp
The final 5.5km of the road into Ganguddy Dunns Swamp is gravel, but very well graded and suitable for any vehicle (at time of writing). It used to be a much longer and bumpier gravel road, but there were people working on it when we visited, so it’s likely over time there will be even less than 5.5km which are unpaved.
There are multiple parking areas, but for the Pagoda Lookout Walk, you can park right beside the trail head which is just here on Google maps.
Dunns Swamp is located around 28km and a 30 minute drive from Rylstone and 84km and a 1 hour 10 minute drive from Mudgee.
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