Abbey Caves is one of Whangarei’s great adventures, with three undeveloped caves - all of which are teeming with glow worms! You won’t find walkways or lighting here, instead it’s wild exploration, with plenty of excitement around every corner.

You can expect to get wet exploring all three caves, but you don’t have to go deep if you don’t want to. We’ll outline what to expect cave by cave with details for those who don’t want to get sodden.

Although the loop walk that joins the three caves is very easy, each cave requires some scrambling to enter. Your efforts are greatly rewarded, with an unforgettable experience which you likely won’t have to share with another soul!

Here’s everything you need to know about visiting Abbey Caves.

Abbey Caves Overview

The three caves: Organ, Middle and Ivy are all very well signposted, you couldn’t possibly get lost finding the entrances. Inside the caves it’s a similar story, except for Ivy cave where you could take a route that becomes a dead end (but we’ll mention that in the notes below).

The walk that links the caves is a 1.3km loop and is mainly through farmland. You’ll cross a few electric fences but they are easy to remove and re-hook.

You’ll need footwear and trousers/shorts that you’re happy to get wet, as well as a decent torch, a head torch will make life easier but I did it with a normal torch.

You don’t need a helmet as the caves are all a decent height. There are a couple of spots you could hit a stalactite, but only if you weren’t looking where you were going!

Any cave can be potentially dangerous to enter and Abbey Caves are not checked for safety, so go carefully. Never enter a cave during rain or when rain is forecast as there is a risk of flash flooding.

If you’d like to try an easier glow worm cave adventure in Whangarei first, then head for Waipu Caves. In fact head to Waipu Caves as well regardless because it’s sensational.

The first cave: Organ Cave

Organ cave is fab and a very close second to Ivy Cave if I were to pick a favourite. It has some good stalactites and rock formations (though not like you would find in a show cave) and plenty of sections that have a slot canyon like feel.

The glow worms are fabulous and abundant throughout much of the cave and the water filled passageways give it that extra element of adventure.

Getting into Organ Cave

Once you’re on the Abbey Caves track (which is signposted) you’ll head down some stairs, passing a bunch of cute alpacas, before heading over a sty and into some farmland. The walk to Organ Cave is 650m and mainly flat or downhill.

You’ll see the sign for the cave and turn left to reach the entrance (right will take you straight to Middle Cave).

There are some rocks to climb over and then some large rocks/boulders to climb down to get into the cave. The rocks are not slippery when dry but definitely are when wet.

It’s not too hard to get down, but there is one move which is a proper scramble (you’ll notice it more on the way back out when you have to hoist your bum up onto a rock).

However, it does require taking it slow and steady if you’re not used to rock hopping.

Once you’re down inside the cave there is one more short section of boulders to clamber over before it’s much more smooth sailing.

You’ll be walking in water straight away but it’s only around ankle deep. You’ll very quickly see glow worms on the walls and ceilings and you’ll see more and more the further you go.

Remember to turn your torch off and let your eyes adjust to the spectacle, it’s absolutely beautiful and just wonderful that you are just allowed inside the cave independently without a guide and tour group. For me it feels that much more special to get the whole experience to ourselves.

After 70m you are going to hit (unless it’s been really dry) much deeper water, knee high and then waist high. If you don’t mind that, then keep going because the passageways are very pretty, almost canyon like, and the glow worms continue!

I went as far as the second cascade, I did want to climb up the small second cascade, but I was on my own at this point and decided that even though it didn’t look too difficult it might not be wise just in case!

You will then retrace your steps back through the cave and out the original entryway.

The second cave: Middle Cave

Middle Cave is the easiest cave to visit, both in terms of entering the cave and walking through. If you’re nimble, you can exit the cave at the other end but most people - us included - retrace their steps.

The cave is quite short at just 50m, but has some fabulous sections of glow worms (although the least of the three). If you’re not too sure about the sound of the other two, then Middle Cave is a great option as it’s that bit easier.

Getting into Middle Cave

The walk between Organ Cave and Middle Cave is just 175m. It’s through a short patch of pretty forest and has a few steps, but is mainly level.

There is the odd tree root to negotiate and it can get a bit muddy, but as you’re getting wet inside the cave anyway it’s no biggie.

There are rocks to climb down into the cave but it’s easier than Organ Cave. Once you’re inside there are no more rocks and it’s generally a very easy walk through.

The water is shallow, a max of ankle deep but not even that in some places. There is one bit when you either need to duck quite low or pass through a narrow gap in the rocks but it’s straightforward.

The glow worms are mainly on the ceiling in Middle Cave and there are some great dense patches. Find a rock to sit down on and turn your torch off to really enjoy the scene at its best

As mentioned you can scramble out the cave at the end but it’s not the easiest and with really wet boots that felt like they might slip, we decided not to. Exiting through the entrance is simple and quick.

The exit from Middle cave — The exit from Middle Cave

Cave three: Ivy Cave

Ivy Cave is by far the most adventurous in my opinion. It was the hardest to get into and involved walking down cascades which was a lot of fun! The water levels were very high on our visit and one section involved swimming to go further.

It’s a really fantastic cave with the best and most intimate glow worm displays. It is my favourite of the caves, although I thoroughly enjoyed all of them.

You can exit Ivy cave if you don’t mind the swim (or if water levels are lower), or return the way you came.

Getting into Ivy Cave

It’s just 150m between Middle Cave and Ivy Cave. Again an easy walk, although this section is particularly prone to mud and there was a sign saying high slip risk.

Take it slow and it’s not too bad and you’re soon on grass which is a little muddy but not slippery. It’s then over the sty and through a little patch of what felt like jungle, all very Indiana Jones-esque!

Then you guessed it: it’s more climbing over rocks to enter the cave. This time there is one very short narrow section to skirt (across three rocks), which I took really slow as my wet boots were making the rock slippery.

Unlike the other two caves you continue descending on rocks through into the cave. If you come out at what looks like two dead ends veer right and you’ll see the correct passage to take - always follow the water!

You’ll climb down a cascade and come to a smaller chamber than any of the other caves. Keep an eye out not to bump your head here! From this point on the glow worms are seriously amazing.

As the cave opens up you’ll see the ceilings are really high and the glow worms go right the way up creating a wonderfully dramatic scene, almost like a cathedral of glow worms.

Again, don’t forget to turn your torch off and really take it all in. The longer you go without light the more glow worms you will see.

You’ll quickly reach a point where you can go over rocks or through water to reach the next passageway. I took the water and Joe the rocks, the water is much easier!

You’ll then step down into much deeper water (this is 50m into the cave), well above the knee rising to waist height very quickly.

The ceiling is lower, but you can easily stand as you wade through the twisting cave walls. For me turning my torch off along this section created the most magical experience in any of the caves as the glow worms feel like they are just above your head.

How much I loved it was evident by the fact that I continued on until chest deep water despite the fact it was winter! At the point where I would have to swim I sadly decided to turn as I wasn’t sure about swimming on my own and with my phone!

If you swim, or the water is lower, I’ve been told that Ivy Cave is easy to exit so you only need to retrace your steps if the water level is too high for you.

If you love the Abbey Caves experience, here are many more amazing places to see glow worms in New Zealand.

Taking care of the caves and glow worms

Remember that all the usual rules that apply to cave tours apply here. Don’t touch the stalactites or any formations. You will probably need to steady yourself at points but just do so on the rock or the walls that have no formations.

Please don’t shine torch light on the glow worms as not only will they stop glowing but it can also harm them. You can shine light on all the parts of the cave that don’t have glow worms but not the ceiling or sections of walls where you can see them.

Getting to Abbey Caves

Abbey Caves are roughly 6km and a 10 minute drive from the centre of Whangarei. There is quite a large car park from which you have a couple of minutes walk to the start of the trail (to the left of the car park following the gravel path).

There are signs about cars being broken into in this area so don’t bring valuables with you.

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